2nd October 2011

Maharaja Indian Restaurant

50 Queensway, London W2

Indian food is now so well established in Britain that it becomes an interesting experience to sample the food in a restaurant that, to judge from the variety of languages and range of accents of English spoken by the diners, mainly caters for visitors to the country. You can begin with vegetable samosas, of the small variety with flaky pastry, or a bowl of dahl in which the legumes have dissolved, topped with flecks of parsley and a slice of lemon you can squeeze with your spoon to release the juice. The main dishes include an aloo gobi which, despite being enlivened by pieces of tomato, I found a little bland and, most unusually when eating Indian food, wanted to add pepper to, and sag chana, a dish made more interesting by the stronger flavour of the spinach. Perhaps the food here is less spicy than usual in Britain…could this be because the British have become accustomed to the strong tastes of Indian food, so that a restaurant aiming at visitors will tone down the intensity? A meal here is a reminder of the infinite possibilities of Indian food!

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