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7th November 2010

Massala Hut Indian Restaurant

161 Drummond St, London NW1, UK

While this well-appointed restaurant caters for omnivores, its vegetarian selection is extensive and excellent. I recommend the bright yellow, gently textured mulligatawny, and another yellowish dish, the tarka dahl which, despite coming with thin slices of garlic, is subtle rather than aggressive in its taste. From there you can go on to a very pleasing dish hitherto unknown to me, aloo jerra, in which soft potatoes swim in a sauce of tomato and spices in which cumin bulks large. The aloo saag is similarly good. This is one of those Indian restaurants where the cooks, while happy to throw chillis into the mix on request, produce very tasty and satisfying food without relying on heat.  It should be on everyone’s short-list of places to visit in Drummond St!

This completes a series of reviews of Indian restaurants in Drummond St…I had hoped to review a sixth, but it was closed at the time of visit. This street is not as well known as Brick Lane in the East End, but seems to me preferable for those seeking Indian food: there are no touts hassling passers-by, on balance the food is better, and being immediately to the west of Euston Station it is easier of access. The restaurants have been reviewed in the order in which you will encounter them walking away from the station.

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31st October 2010

Chutney’s

124 Drummond St, London NW1, UK

The search for the perfect dahl may be unending, but the product at this smart vegetarian restaurant comes pretty close. The cooked lentils are accompanied by a mix of curry leaves, dried chillies, mustard seeds and garlic which give it a rich flavour without the heavy use of spices. They also do a great bhaji of shredded onion, spinach and potato, that comes with a powerful chutney.

Like other restaurants in Drummond St, Chutney’s offers a buffet for lunch.  Indian food suffers less than most cuisines do by sitting in a bain-marie, and the hot dishes, a good half dozen of them, are all tasty and satisfying, as are the cold ones (the strong tasting salad, with slices of red onion, goes beautifully with curry and the chick-peas that sit beside it .) There are fruit and milk based sweets, plenty of rice and bread, and you are welcome to all you can eat! And quite apart from the question of how much you eat, which will probably turn out to be more than you thought you would when you walked in, for this price the food is of astonishing quality.

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24th October 2010

Drummond Villa

118 Drummond St, London NW1, UK

Standing just across the street from the two vegetarian restaurants most recently reviewed, this restaurant seems to have decided to aim for a different clientele. This is not to say vegetarians can’t eat there, for they do a very respectable vegetable thali, which comprises thick dahl, mushrooms, okra and potato with spinach, along with rice, a small chapati and raita. But people after veggie food will find  themselves better catered for elsewhere in the street, so this restaurant is mentioned here for the sake of completeness.

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17th October 2010

Ravi Shankar

133-135 Dummond St, London NW1, UK

There’s far more to enjoy in this vegetarian restaurant than you might think from looking in as you stand outside. You can start with the amazingly plump samosas (you can tell a lot about an Indian restaurant by how seriously they take their samosas), then move on to a bowl of  the dahl, richly satisfying without being hot, which is based on yellow split peas with plenty of mustard seeds and coriander. Then you might incline towards the Mysore masala dosa, which comes with sambal, coconut mix, chutney, and…cutlery; I’m not sure whether the necessarily awkward use of knife and fork on a dish designed to be eaten with fingers is a good idea, but the product is fine. The same sambal and chutney appear as accompaniments to the uthpappam, a kind of spicy lentil pancake. If you find that deciding what to order is beyond you, there’s always the daily special, which offers a wide variety of dishes served on a metal tray, although as it inevitably includes dairy desserts vegatarians will appreaciate it more fully than vegans.  Behind the modest appearance of the Ravi Shankar there lurks a very serious restaurant.

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10th October 2010

Diwana Bhel Poori House

121 Drummond St, London NW1, UK

The first Indian restaurant you encounter walking along Drummond St away from Euston station, passing the vegetable shops, is this unpretentious but thoroughly enjoyable establishment. It offers a number of set meals, such as a Gujurati Thali that consists of dahl, aloo matar, pooris or chapatis, rice, and a fairly basic salad of shredded lettuce. The menu also offers daily specials; on Friday this is corn palak, a delightful, lightly spiced dish of spinach into which grains of corn have been mixed. It’s a generous serving, and is accompanied by chapatis or rice and salad. The extensive menu has many other dishes, every one of them veggie, and it would be a wonderful experience to work through them one by one. This is a deservedly popular restaurant.

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1st October 2010

Highlighted Campaign for October 2010

International Veg Week Challenge October 1 – 7

“Vegetarian as a general concept is a brilliant thing… We’ve got to stop eating so much meat. We are eating too much meat.” — Jamie Oliver

Can we encourage our non-vegie friends to save the lives of two animals in the next week by taking the challenge of being meat free for at least one week??

International Vegetarian Week celebrates a compassionate choice for a kinder world.  If all Australians went meat-free for just one week, we could spare almost 10 million animals from the horrors of factory farms.

Check out the campaign at: http://www.animalsaustralia.org/features/veg-week/ 

 

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30th September 2010

Hare and Tortoise

11-13 The Brunswick, Brunswick Square, London WC1, UK

Japanese fusion is the style at this busy restaurant, popular with students. For starters you can try the mixed salad greens, which come with avocado, wakame and dressing. Another side dish is maki, a kind of sushi without wrapping in which the rice encloses avocado, asparagus and kanpyo…the waiter didn’t know what this last ingredient was, and it turns out to be seasoned gourd; pickled ginger, soy sauce and horesradish accompany the dish. More substantial is the satay vegetable lo mein, in which tofu, capsicum, sprouts, carrots, mushrooms and white onion are piled on a bed of noodles or rice; the onion, not common in East Asian cuisine, is only  lightly cooked, giving the dish extra crunchiness as well as a strong taste. Don’t be surprised if you find a queue outside the door, but this is not the kind of place where people linger, so you won’t be waiting long for a table. In every respect its style is that of a hare, and I’m not sure why a tortoise enjoys equal status in its name.

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25th September 2010

Konaki Greek Restaurant

5 Coptic St, London WC1, UK

Tucked away in one of the small streets to the south of the British Museum, this very attractive restaurant was a wonderful place to share a meal with some dear English friends. We began with a bowl of black olives, slices of carrot and pickles accompanied by warm pitta bread. One of our number ordered the moussaka, a nice mix of baked aubergine, courgette and mushrooms standing on a potato base, over which a rich dressing had been poured; a crunchy salad accompanied it. And it’s not being disparaging to the restaurant to say that the dish of gigandes, ‘giant’ white beans in a tomato and herb sauce, had all the virtues of home cooking at its best, being uncomplicatedly straightforward, immensely hearty and satisfying, yet tasty. We shared a tomato and red onion salad, and washed the meal down with a bottle of  Kritikos Topikos Oinos, a chilled dry white which complimented the food perfectly. Eucharisto Konaki for a very happy dinner!

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19th September 2010

Greens and Beans

131 Drummond St, London NW1, UK

Two of us sat to lunch at this downstairs vegetarian eatery, and owing to a confusion over the menu we ended up eating the same thing,  the arrabbiata pasta. It’s somewhat spicy, its tomato-based sauce not too runny, nicely cooked to a perfect al dente texture, and comes with lots of olives, although these are of the pitted kind that don’t have too much taste. The dish is vegan, but the staff offer a bowl of parmesan cheese which can be sprinkled over it.  It may have been better to have ordered one of the more health-food style options rather than a dish one could get at any Italian restaurant, but the pasta makes a pleasant meal. Juices are available, including one I’d never struck before, made from apple, carrot and spinach; the last ingredient showed itself in the greenish tinge of the drink, but its taste was submerged beneath the sweetness of the apple. The apple, carrot and ginger juice is strongly recommended.

Drummond St is famous for its Indian restaurants, which I hope to discuss in a series of reviews beginning in a few weeks.

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12th September 2010

Safadi Lebanese Express

113 High Holborn, London WC1, UK

One sometimes finds authenticity in unexpected places, and despite its air of efficient modernity one eats very well at the Safadi. The favva beans in the ful are cooked to the point of disintegrating, the pieces of soft falafel, of the kind shaped like cupcakes,  come with lemony tahini, pickles, tomato and shredded lettuce, and the parsley in the tabouleh is so fresh it seems to have come straight from the garden. But the outstanding dish is the fattoush, in which a large plate of tomatoes, lettuce, green capsicum, cucumber and bread has had poured over it a brown liquid that turns out to be pomegranate juice, which gives the dish an unexpected but utterly appealing sweet edge. The supply of bread is plentiful, the complementary olives are welcome, and while there is no alcohol the still lemonade and freshly squeezed orange juice complement the strong tastes of the food superbly. The speed of the service fully accords with the name of the restaurant, and the vegetarian dishes on the menu are very reasonably priced. I recommend the Safadi without hesitation!

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